“What? You are going to Iran? Is it safe?” This was the shocked reaction of most friends when I shared my plans to travel to Iran. Iran is in the Middle East, bordering the Gulf of Oman, the Persian Gulf, and the Caspian Sea, between Iraq and Pakistan.
To many, the very mention of Iran conjures images of war, gunfire and chaos. But to an avid traveller like me, I was intrigued to find out beyond what is portrayed in the media, experience the everyday life of the ordinary people and unravel the interesting facets of this mystery-shrouded country.
Together with my two other travelmates, we spent a month gallivanting in the Middle East, including Iran, Syria and Turkey. During the first two weeks in Iran, we explored the souqs in Tehran, visited mosques and archaeological sites in Esfahan and Yadz, and sampled varied authentic Persian cuisine. The trip was peppered with interesting adventures and misadventures which made it even more memorable.
Heart-warming Iranian hospitality
Asian tourists are a novelty to Iranian people. In Esfahan, we became instant celebrities when we were mobbed by a group of giggly school girls who asked for our signatures. Caught completely off-guard, we amusedly obliged to our excited “fans”.
The warmth and generosity of the Iranian people melted our hearts. Everywhere we went, murmurs of “Assalamualaikum”, “Peace be unto you”, a common greeting among Muslims, could be distinctly heard. Happily, we replied, “Wa alaikum assalaam” (And upon you be peace.) and were instantly greeted by broad smiles, elderly people and children alike.
Once, a piping hot nan (flat bread) was shoved right in front of my face while I was standing outside a bakery, observing how the bread was made. The baker smilingly gestured me to take the bread. Another time, we received a surprise treat at a snack shop when the hospitable shopowner refused our payment and insisted that they were free for us.
The souq, the traditional open-air marketplace, is a unique feature in Middle East and a great place to feel the pulse of the Iranian culture. In Tehran, we explored the complex maze of narrow cobbled streets and criss-crossing alleys in the Grand Bazaar and were amazed by the diversity of items and services there. From nuts, scarves, silverware, souvenirs to tailoring services and furniture, the souq was a bustling scene of varied activities. We enjoyed ourselves by making friends with the locals and haggling prices with the shopwners in the atmospheric place.
People-watching was great fun too. We sat in a roadside café and watched the passersby. While older Iranian women were often seen in the chador, a conservative long and black cloak, many of the young ladies adorned themselves with fashionable head scarves.
The National Jewels Museum and the Golestan Palace in Tehran are interesting places to visit. Tehran is home to the imperial crown jewels of Persia and the dazzling array of jewellery and jewelled objects in the museum is acclaimed to be the largest and most valuable collection in the world.
The historic charms of Yadz and Abyaneh VillageWe fell in love with the historic town of Yadz at first sight. A desert city located in the Dasht-e-Kavir Desert, 270 kilometres from Esfahan, Yadz is one of the oldest living cities in the world and is known as the holiest city for Zoroastrians.
We visited some interesting sights including the Zoroastrian Tower of Silence, the Shaking Minaret and the desert village, Abyaneh Village. In the old town, we were tailed by two young boys, to realise later that all they wanted was to practise speaking English with us. We spent a leisurely afternoon in a cozy teahouse with them and taught them new words and pronunciation.
A trip to Abyaneh Village can be easily arranged as part of a daytrip from Yadz and is a must-do. Located at the foot of the Karkass Mountain, this UNESCO world heritage site is characterised by a unique reddish hue and is a living anthropological and architectural museum.
As we strolled along the alleyways of Abyaneh, it felt as if we had traversed through time back to the ancient times. Interestingly, homes are mud-brick houses that dated as far back as thousands of years ago. The people still use the ancient dialect and women decked in traditional clothing are commonly seen.
The romantic city of Esfahan
Esfahan is touted to be the most beautiful city in Iran and is commonly known as the cultural capital. During our three days’ stay, we crossed majestic bridges, including Si-o-Seh Bridge (Bridge of 33 Arches), admired the signature blue-tiled mosaic dome of the Imam Mosque and visited amazing heritage sites. We were blown away by these impressive architectural gems which exemplified the best of Persian architecture. We befriended two Iranian women who brought us to the Naqsh-e-Jahan Square (Imam Square) to catch a glimpse of the wondrous night scene of the town square.
A night with the nomads, Shiraz
In Shiraz, we were set to find ways to spend a night in a traditional Bedouin tent with a nomadic family. The traffic police who stopped our car for speeding became our saviour who helped us locate a nearby tribe in the vast lands. Our host family and their lovely children showered us with true Iranian hospitality. They flaunted their traditional dance and even dressed us up in their precious costumes. That night, we enjoyed a heart-warming dinner, huddled together on the colourful rugs with our host family and their friends, in the dimly lit tent.
The backpacking trip to Iran was an amazing experience that broadened our perspectives and provided us with an intimate feel of the cradle of civilisation and its people.
Getting There
There are no direct flights from Singapore to Iran. Airlines that provide flights to the the capital of Iran, Tehran include Emirates via Dubai, Ethihad Airways via Abu Dhabi ,Qatar Airways via Doha, and Turkish Airlines via Istanbul, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines via Amsterdam, Silkair via Abu Dhabi and Singapore Airlines via Kuala Lumpur and Doha.
Traveller’s Tips
1. Wear a headscarf when you take your photograph for the visa application. In Iran, it is mandatory for women to cover their hair and wear headscarves everywhere they go and the same law applies to female tourists. Some research about the recommended attire for women would prevent you from getting stopped at the doors of historic sites.
2. Bring souvenirs from Singapore to reciprocate the kindness of the hospitable Iranian people that you will be sure to meet during your travels. Chopsticks make wonderful gifts. You can start a cultural exchange with the Iranian people by teaching them how to use the Chinese chopsticks.
3. Women travellers would need to be more vigilant when it comes to personal invitations from men to their homes.
4. Take time to make friends with the Iranian people. You will gain refreshing insights about the country and its culture beyond what travel books can offer.
5. If you need to use the toilets, ask for W.C. Terms such as washrooms and toilets are unfamiliar to the Iranian people.
6. Do not use the okay sign as it is deemed to be an obscene sign which means asshole. Giving the thumbs-up sign is a vulgar sign that means F**^k you and you should refrain from using it at all costs.
